Italy is famous throughout the world for its cities of art and its thousand-year history. Everyone knows the Colosseum in Rome, the canals of Venice, the Uffizi in Florence, and if these are undoubtedly places of breathtaking beauty, they are not the only wonders of the peninsula. Many places have something to offer but still remain unknown to most people, often even to Italians themselves. The Valley of the Mills (Italian: Vallone dei Mulini) is one of these, a real jungle that you would never think could be found in Italy, yet it is there, on the Sorrento coast.
Nestled in the breathtaking region of Sorrento, the Valley of the Mills stands as a testament to the captivating marriage of nature’s resilience and the echoes of a forgotten industrial past. This singular site enthralls visitors with its picturesque scenery, characterized by the harmonious coexistence of abandoned historical structures and thriving wilderness. The unicity of this place emanates from its natural origins, where the convergence of geological formations and human activity shaped a landscape of unparalleled beauty and intrigue.
The Valley of the Mills is a geological oddity originated around 35,000 years ago, when a violent eruption of the Phlegraean Fields, an ancient supervolcano, covered the area from Punta Scutolo to Capo di Sorrento with debris: the spring waters that formed low-flow streams, called Casarlano and Sant’Antonino, who meet just before the beginning of the valley, dug a deep and narrow gorge, looking for an outlet to the sea.
The history of the Valley of the Mills dates back to the medieval era when the region was a thriving hub of industrial activity. In the 16th century, the area was owned by the Tasso family, while later it came under the control of the Correales. It was one of the members of this family who in the 17th century had a port built at the mouth of the valley, in what is now Marina Piccola but which was once called Capo di Cerere, due to the presence of an ancient Roman temple dedicated to Ceres and then destroyed by two landslides (in 1580 and 1604). In the following years, at the bottom of the valley, a mill was built, which exploited the waters of the stream and was used for grinding wheat, a sawmill that processed cherry, olive, and walnut wood used by local artisans, and a public wash house. An industrial complex whose ruins are still visible.
Sorrento was joined to the rest of the coast by a narrow bridge that spanned the valley, but in 1866 it was decided to eliminate the bridge and replace it with a square. Thus it was that the Valley of the Mills found itself divided in two: on one side, the outlet towards the sea, later occupied by the road to the port, on the other the small industrial complex which ceased to function at the beginning of the 20th century, both for the lack of channeled water, both for climatic reasons, as the total absence of wind and high humidity due to the artificial barrier made human settlements impossible.
Despite the absence of human activity, the Valley of the Mills did not succumb to desolation. Instead, nature embraced the abandoned structures, reclaiming them with a tenacious display of resilience. The crumbling walls and decaying remnants became canvases for a vibrant array of plant life. Moss-covered stones, cascading vines, and flourishing ferns now adorn the forsaken mills, creating a mesmerizing fusion of nature and history.
The absence of human intervention allowed the ecosystem to flourish, fostering biodiversity and creating a sanctuary for various plant species. The once-industrial edifices, now adorned with a tapestry of greenery, showcase the remarkable ability of nature to thrive in unexpected habitats. And now it is possible to admire some rare or almost completely disappeared plants, such as Phyllitis vulgaris, as well as various carnivorous plants and caper bushes.
The most striking aspect of the Valley of the Mills is the collection of abandoned buildings that dot its landscape. These remnants of a bygone industrial era stand frozen in time, their weathered facades and crumbling walls a testament to the passage of time. The abandoned mills, with their moss-covered walls and eerie ambiance, evoke a sense of haunting beauty that lures adventurers and history enthusiasts alike, and creates a hauntingly beautiful scene that attracts photographers and artists seeking to capture its enigmatic charm. The Valley became in fact one of the most famous abandoned places on the internet. In 2014 Instagram featured it as a “photo of the day”, attracting millions of views and 300,000 comments, and in 2016 Buzzfeed named it one of the world’s top “beautifully haunted abandoned places”.
Visiting the Valley of the Mills offers an unparalleled opportunity to witness the enchanting spectacle of nature’s reclamation. It’s a journey through time, where the remnants of human industry coexist with the vitality of the natural world. Exploring this unique site allows one to contemplate the interplay between mankind’s endeavors and the enduring resilience of the environment. Moreover, the Valley of the Mills serves as a poignant reminder of the importance of conservation and preservation. It highlights the delicate balance between human intervention and nature’s ability to reclaim its spaces, urging visitors to appreciate and protect our natural heritage.
In conclusion, the Valley of the Mills in Sorrento stands as a testament to the enduring power of nature and the echoes of history. It beckons travelers, nature enthusiasts, and history buffs alike to immerse themselves in its captivating beauty and contemplate the remarkable interplay between human activity and the natural world. Visiting this unique site is not merely a journey; it’s an exploration of resilience, a celebration of nature’s tenacity, and an invitation to cherish and preserve the wonders of our planet.
But now the sad part. Today, the much-loved ruin has lost its covering of vegetation and parts of its decaying structure, following a controversial restoration. In May 2020, in response to a backlash over the changes, local authorities stopped all work on the site. Will the site be the same again?
Of course, the restoration runs counter to the conditions that made this place stand out to countless artists and visitors for centuries, the otherworldly atmosphere that seemed to exist outside the flow of time itself. And there’s no guarantee that redevelopment of the mill will make the site any more appealing to visitors or locals. Anyway, some believe that the mill could be open to the public, but without putting the surrounding ecosystem at risk. For now, the building remains in private hands, and fans from around the world could play a big role in what happens next, putting pressure on the owners to preserve its identity somehow. Like what happened with Poveglia, an island near Venice that was put up for sale in 2014 and was eventually declared a public good and preserved after a petition was signed by more than 4,000 people.
In any case, if you want to experience this fascinating corner of the globe for yourself, the Valley of the Mills remains a place to photograph and observe, thinking about how it must have been in the past. You can see it from Piazza Tasso, which is in the center of Sorrento, and photograph it from above from the railing of via Fuorimura. Access is not allowed to visitors because it is private property.
If you want to find out more about this wonderful place, I recommend you visit this website promoted by the Institute for the History of the Italian Risorgimento, Naples Committee, where you can find a lot of historical information and drawings from the past.