In the western reaches of South Tyrol, at an elevation of 1,498 meters above sea level, lies Lake Resia in Curon Venosta. What sets this artificial lake apart is an unmistakable sight: a bell tower that appears to rise mysteriously from the water’s surface. Why is there a bell tower in the middle of a lake?
Until 1950, this area was home to three natural lakes: Lake Resia, Lake Curon, and Lake San Valentino alla Muta (the latter still exists). However, the construction of a massive dam between 1947 and 1949 unified the first two lakes, submerging the village of Curon and part of the town of Resia, forcing all the inhabitants to evacuate.
Today, the solitary bell tower standing in the lake serves as a poignant reminder of this event and the lost village of Old Curon. This event is shrouded in numerous legends; one tale suggests that on certain days, even now, the bells of the tower can still be heard, despite having been removed before the lake was created.
The submerged bell tower
The summit of the old bell tower in Curon rises hauntingly from the waters of the lake, the sole remnant of the original Romanesque structure dating back to 1357. This ancient edifice once included the Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria and its accompanying bell tower. While the church underwent significant reconstruction between 1832 and 1938, the bell tower remained untouched.
In 2009, the bell tower was meticulously restored, facilitated by a strategic lowering of the lake’s water level. This intervention was crucial for both the structural integrity and the repair of cracks in the corners of the façades. The roof also saw restoration, with the previous repairs dating back to 1899, as marked on the tiles.
During the winter, when the lake freezes over, the bell tower becomes accessible on foot, transforming into a sought-after destination for tourists in search of unique and off-the-beaten-path experiences. From December to March, the frozen lake becomes a playground for cross-country skiing, ice skating, snowkiting, and ice sailing, driven by strong and frequent winds. July brings the beloved and exhilarating Resia Lake’s Race, a running event that stands out in the region.
For those inclined towards sports along the shore, running, Nordic walking, leisurely strolls, or cycling are perfect activities. Lake Resia is also a true haven for kitesurfers, offering an idyllic setting for this thrilling sport.
The construction of the dam
At the Resia Pass, there once lay three natural lakes: Lake Resia, Lake Curon, also known as Lake Mezzo, and Lake San Valentino alla Muta. In 1950, the construction of a monumental dam unified the first two lakes and submerged the ancient village of Curon Venosta, which was later rebuilt further upstream. This project resulted in the submersion of 163 houses and 523 hectares of cultivated farmland, creating the basin of the current lake, which extends 6 km in length and 1 km in width at its widest point.
The concept of harnessing these three lakes for hydroelectric power dates back to 1910, but construction only commenced in 1939. The outbreak of World War II initially slowed and eventually halted the work in 1943. Despite post-war economic challenges and a scarcity of essential raw materials, construction resumed in 1946, bolstered by Swiss investments, and was completed with the dam’s inauguration on August 28, 1949.
The dam’s construction ignited fierce protests from residents, who even appealed to the Pope to prevent the project, but their efforts were in vain. The massive undertaking involved 7,000 laborers over a thousand working days, for 25 billion old lire. The project required the excavation of 35 km of underground tunnels, the use of 1.5 million quintals of cement, 10,000 tons of iron, and 800 tons of explosives. However, the greatest cost was the complete demolition of the village center of Curon Venosta and the partial demolition of Resia, both of which were rebuilt at higher elevations.