Altamura bread is more than a mere food; it embodies an emblematic fusion of tradition, culture, and sustainability. Regarded by some, myself included, as unrivaled worldwide. Endowed with distinctive characteristics, it has been granted the prestigious European Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) since 2003, a designation the Altamura Bread Consortium seeks to elevate to intangible cultural heritage status.
The profundity of significance that such a humble staple as bread holds for its region is truly remarkable. After all, the history of bread intertwines seamlessly with that of human civilization, spanning at least 10,000 years. As a cornerstone of nutrition through the ages, control over bread production often wielded significant political power, many times sparking unrest and riots. It’s not casual that the Roman poet Juvenal observed that emperors maintained social order through the provision of “panem et circenses” (bread and circuses).
Returning to the subject of Altamura Bread, its uniqueness beckons exploration, beginning with its enduring aroma and softness, which can endure for up to 10 days! Let’s be honest, have you ever savored bread that retains its freshness for such an extended period?
A Unique Bread
Baked in traditional wood-fired and stone ovens, Altamura bread distinguishes itself with its enticing fragrance and unparalleled flavor. It boasts a crusty exterior and a soft, straw-yellow crumb. It is usually available in two traditional forms: the first, locally known as “u sckuanéte” (cross-shaped bread), features a lofty stature, while the other, dubbed “a cappidde de prévete” (the priest’s hat), assumes a lower profile.
Crafting Altamura bread requires elemental essentials: the fertile earth yielding the finest durum wheat, water to bind the flour, air facilitating natural yeast fermentation, and fire for the baking process. Yet, what truly sets this bread apart are the craftsmanship and ingenuity of Altamura’s artisans. Meticulously selecting and blending grains, grinding them into a distinctive semolina, fermenting the dough patiently, and expertly balancing salt, water, yeast, and processing times, all while adhering to precise temperature control and employing suitable oak wood for the ovens.
Each stage is twofold: wheat undergoes double grinding, dough receives double kneading, rising occurs twice, and the oven is opened and closed twice during baking. And one can savor Altamura bread twice over: when freshly baked, boasting a crisp exterior reminiscent of biscuits and a tender, panettone-like interior, and when “aged”, its flavors enriched further with a drizzle of olive oil or tomato juice, or served as the classic “cialledda” of shepherds (stale Altamura bread, red onions, olives, tomatoes, oregano, salt, olive oil, and caroselli, a tiny kind of melon).
A Glimpse into the History of Altamura Bread
Centuries ago, bread-making was primarily the domain of women within households, later brought to baking in communal ovens. Bread production was thus a communal act, entwining the realms of family and public life. To distinguish loaves and ensure their rightful recipients, bakers would imprint them with the family patriarch’s initials using iron stamps, subsequently announcing their readiness to the populace. Until the mid-20th century, the resounding shouting of the baker echoed through the streets of Altamura at dawn, signaling the bread’s completion.
A hallmark of Altamura bread, enduring through generations, was its longevity – a vital attribute for sustaining farmers and shepherds during prolonged periods away from home, toiling in fields or pastures. For these laborers, lunch often comprised a hearty bread soup, seasoned with olive oil and salt.
The earliest recorded mention of the bread’s provenance, though not explicitly linked to Altamura but undoubtedly within the Murge region, dates back to the “Satires” of the Latin poet Horace. During his journey to Brindisi in 37 BC, Horace encountered bread he deemed “the most beautiful”, so much so “that the provident traveler gets a provision for the continuation of the journey”.
Territory of Production
The Altamura PDO bread is exclusively crafted within a meticulously defined production area in Apulia, encompassing the municipalities of Altamura, Minervino, Poggiorsini, Gravina in Puglia, and Spinazzola.
Nestled in the heart of Murgia, Altamura serves as a prominent hub for cereal cultivation in Puglia, situated just a short distance from Bari. Here, the combination of premium raw materials, the traditional natural leavening process, and the unique local climate bestow upon the bread an unmistakable aroma and delightful flavor.
Indeed, bread production in Altamura is an art deeply rooted in ancient and esteemed traditions, passed down through generations of farmers and shepherds. The fundamental ingredients – finely ground semolina of durum wheat, mother yeast, salt, and water – remain unchanged across centuries. Likewise, the production process adheres to a time-honored ritual, encompassing five distinct phases: mixing, shaping, fermenting, molding, and finally, baking in wood-fired ovens.
One last intriguing tidbit: when crafted in a circular shape resembling a donut, Altamura bread assumes the moniker “piccilatidd”, bread of the “piccio”, that is, the bread of the whim of a child, to be satisfied with a good thing.