In Alassio, a splendid town overlooking the Ligurian Sea not far from the French border, which in the early years of the twentieth-century composer Edward Elgar celebrated in his renowned symphony “In the South” and writer Cecil Roberts praised in his work “Portal to Paradise”, lie Villa della Pergola Gardens. This historic park, rooted in the mid-1800s, now stands as a beacon of beauty, having clinched the title of “The Most Beautiful Park in Italy” in 2022. Today, it serves as a charming relais and is home to the Michelin-starred restaurant Nove, welcoming visitors to explore its wonders either independently or with a knowledgeable guide.
The Villa della Pergola Gardens, nestled in a breathtaking coastal locale, offer a unique opportunity to immerse oneself in the lush embrace of typical Mediterranean flora alongside an array of rare and exotic specimens. Among its treasures are Italy’s foremost collection of wisterias, boasting over 40 varieties, and Europe’s premier assortment of agapanthus, boasting nearly 500 distinct species.
Within this natural masterpiece, visitors are enveloped in a tapestry of evergreen Mediterranean and exotic foliage, where fragrances mingle with vibrant hues to create an unforgettable sensory journey. Unmissable are the wisteria blooms in April, already beloved by the estate’s former owner Ruth Hanbury who used to organize the “Wisteria Festival” every year, as well as the breathtaking agapanthus displays in late June and July.
The Botanical Marvels
The agapanthuses of Villa della Pergola Gardens stand as a unique collection in Europe, both for their vastness and their significance. Today, they boast nearly 500 different varieties and thousands of specimens. Hailing from Southern Africa, these beautiful blooms were introduced to Villa della Pergola by its early English proprietors in the late 19th century. Curated by Silvia Arnaud Ricci and architect Paolo Pejrone, this collection can be admired at various points throughout the park. During their blooming season, the Gardens are transformed into a captivating display of blues, azures, and whites, reminiscent of the rolling waves of the ocean.
Meanwhile, the wisteria collection claims its place as Italy’s most esteemed, showcasing over 40 distinct varieties in shape and color. This cherished collection was a particular delight for the Hanbury family, stewards of the Villa and the Park for nearly the entire 20th century. The significance of its bloom season was such that the family celebrated it annually with a “Wisteria Party”, attended by the English community and local dignitaries of Alassio. Throughout the blooming period, from March to April, the Gardens are graced with spectacular cascades of wisteria in lilac, pink, and white, their fragrance enveloping the park in an intoxicating aroma, providing a unique backdrop for leisurely strolls.
Additionally, the Villa della Pergola Gardens house a sprawling citrus grove boasting around 40 different varieties, including rare and curious species such as the Savona Chinotto, the Buddha’s Hand Citron, the Trifoliate Orange (the only deciduous citrus in nature), and the Murraya Paniculata, the smallest citrus in the world. The blossoms that precede the fruit are known as “zagara”, presenting a dramatic white hue with varying shades depending on the species; for instance, lemon and citron exhibit violet undertones. Interestingly, the term “zagara” derives from the Sicilian “zàgara”, which traces back to the Arabic “zahra” (flower).
But the allure of the Gardens of Villa della Pergola does not end here. Visitors can also explore more captivating collections, including roses, water lilies and lotuses, cacti and prickly pears, hibiscus, ancient myrtles, palms and bamboo, and the prehistoric Wollemia Nobilis, dubbed “the plant from the past”. Until the 1990s, this species was only known through fossils, but in 1994, a small population was discovered in Australia, making it one of the rarest botanical specimens on Earth with an estimated presence in nature of fewer than one hundred specimens.
Brief History of Villa della Pergola Gardens
The Gardens of Villa della Pergola in Alassio stand as a rare example of an Anglo-Mediterranean park, impeccably preserved in its original grandeur. Originating around 1860 from the vision of General Montagu McMurdo and his wife Lady Susan Sarah Napier, the park was conceived as a private retreat for the winter and spring seasons along the Ligurian Riviera.
Under General McMurdo’s guidance, what was once a rural agricultural estate blossomed into a lavish pleasure ground. He adorned it with myriad ornamental plants and terracotta balustrades, delineating the most picturesque vistas. Moreover, he commissioned the construction of Villa della Pergola, the park’s principal edifice, and ingeniously connected the sprawling property sectors with wooden bridges, seamlessly traversing the ancient hillside mule track without exiting the park’s bounds.
By the turn of the 20th century, under the ownership of Sir Walter Hamilton Dalrymple, the park experienced an exponential growth in ornamental flora. Groves of cypresses, still commanding the landscape today, were planted, and the grand pergolas witnessed the debut of the first banksia roses. Sir Walter’s touch also graced the park with numerous fountains, which continue to enchant visitors, while facilitating the introduction of water lilies and aquatic flora.
By 1907, the Villa’s park had garnered such renown that author William Scott lauded it in his tome on the Ligurian Riviera, hailing it as a “peerless rival to Sir Thomas Hanbury’s renowned gardens at La Mortola” and a “true marvel of the Riviera”. In 1922, thanks to Scott’s accolades, one of Sir Thomas Hanbury’s sons assumed ownership, initiating a period of botanical enrichment within the park.
However, the ravages of World War II precipitated the park’s closure. Neglect and the encroachment of wildlife wrought significant deterioration, a plight exacerbated during the German occupation from 1943 to 1945. Post-war efforts at restoration were initiated but faltered, and by 1982, changes in ownership saw the park and villas fall into disrepair.
It wasn’t until 2006, following a judicial auction, that a dedicated group led by Silvia and Antonio Ricci embarked on the ambitious restoration of Villa della Pergola Gardens. Guided by landscape architect Paolo Pejrone, they meticulously revived the 22,000 square meters of lush grounds. Today, the park not only honors its illustrious past but transcends it, continually enriching itself with new botanical collections and rare specimens, solidifying its status as a botanical gem of the Mediterranean.