Situated in the heart of the Tuscan valleys, within the municipality of Reggello, and just 30 kilometers from Florence, stands a structure unparalleled in Italy – Sammezzano Castle. This castle is a stunning re-creation of Moorish art’s architectural masterpieces, making it the most significant example of Orientalist architecture in Italy. With its 13 monumental rooms and a park adorned with a myriad of tree species, the castle offers a unique and captivating experience.
Once the property of the illustrious Panciatichi Ximenes of Aragon, a prominent family in the Florentine aristocracy, Sammezzano Castle boasts a rich history. The narrative unfolds within its rooms, adorned with intricate polychrome stuccos that resonate with the charm of enchanting oriental residences. Regrettably, the castle’s recent history has been tumultuous. Following its stint as a hotel-restaurant, it has remained closed for over three decades, now requiring urgent restoration to avert further deterioration and the looming threat of gradual oblivion.
The History of Sammezzano Castle
With its dual façade symbolizing the sun and the moon, Sammezzano Castle immediately captivates with the promise of the wonders and mysteries concealed within. This eclectic architectural marvel predominantly embraces the Orientalist style, showcasing the outcome of a nineteenth-century transformation of a substantial farm established in 1605. However, the historical roots of this place extend even further back to Roman times. According to the historian Robert Davidsohn in the History of Florence, there is speculation that Charlemagne might have traversed this site in 780, upon his return from Rome after having his son baptized by the Pope.
Throughout the centuries, the estate, to which the castle belongs, has been under the ownership of distinguished families like the Altoviti and the de’ Medici. Nevertheless, it was Ferdinando Panciatichi Ximenes of Aragon who, between 1853 and 1889, orchestrated a redesign that essentially dedicated his life to the endeavor. In approximately forty years, the Marquis conceived, financed, and erected both the park and the castle.
In alignment with the cultural movement known as “Orientalism”, which gained prominence across Europe in the early nineteenth century with Florence as one of its primary hubs, Ferdinando initiated alterations to the existing structure and crafted new rooms. The transformation unfolded with the creation of the Entrance Hall in 1853, the Corridor of the Stalactites in 1862, and the Ballroom in 1867, culminating in the central tower marked with the engraved date 1889. An array of mottos, phrases, and comments in Latin and Italian accompanies visitors on a captivating journey through space and time, traversing from China to Spain by way of Arabia.
This Castle, which played host to King Umberto I of Italy in 1878, served as a luxurious hotel and as the backdrop for numerous film productions in the 1900s. Filmmakers such as Pier Paolo Pasolini, Joe D’Amato, Alberto Sordi, and Claude Chabrol chose this location for their cinematic creations. The legacy continued until 2015 with Matteo Garrone’s Tale of Tales, featuring Vincent Cassel and Salma Hayek.
The Historical Park
Ferdinando Panciatichi Ximenes d’Aragona, a connoisseur of plants and an avid botany enthusiast, undertook the meticulous reorganization of the extensive green expanse encompassing approximately 65 hectares around the Castle, now referred to as the Historical Park. Adjacent to the ancient “ragnaia”, formed by a forest of holm oaks, Ferdinando strategically positioned numerous rare and exotic plants. These plants served a dual purpose: enhancing the external aesthetics and gradually acquainting visitors and guests with the marvels of the Moorish-style villa-castle. The architectural enhancements included features like a bridge, an artificial cave housing a Venus statue, basins, fountains, and other decorative terracotta creations.
Sammezzano Castle and its Park thus stand as a unique entity of considerable historical, architectural, and environmental value. The Park boasts an invaluable botanical heritage, comprising not only the tree species introduced by Ferdinando but also indigenous ones. Among the former, the most prominent are the majestic sequoias. The park is home to Italy’s largest cluster of giant sequoias, boasting 57 mature specimens, all surpassing 35 meters in height. The “twin sequoia” stands out, soaring over 50 meters high with a circumference of 8.4 meters, not only joining Italy’s monumental trees but also securing a place in the exclusive circle of the “150 trees of exceptional environmental or monumental value”.
Among the indigenous species native to the region, numerous oak varieties merit attention, including the holm oak, turkey oak, downy oak, and the rare cork oak. Additionally, maples and junipers contribute to the park’s overall embellishment. However, only a fraction of the nineteenth-century plants has endured to the present day; by 1890, a mere 37 of the originally planted 134 botanical species had survived. Only recently, a restoration project has been initiated to replant some of the lost species, enhancing the park’s original botanical richness.
Sammezzano Castle for Sale
Regrettably, the recent history of this architectural marvel tells a somber tale. Stripped of all its historic furnishings, the Castle has witnessed a steady decline in its condition. In desperate need of urgent restoration, the castle’s fate has been compounded by the financial troubles of the Italian-English company that acquired it over two decades ago, with aspirations of transforming it into a luxury resort.
The company faced its first bankruptcy declaration in 2017, prompting the castle’s auction (though, regrettably, the auction remained unclaimed). Now, history seems to repeat itself, as the company has once again succumbed to bankruptcy. The optimistic aspirations of 2022, when the ownership committed to the Tuscany Region for essential maintenance and redevelopment initiatives, have crumbled. Unfortunately, no substantial efforts were made, and the castle finds itself back on the market.
In a commendable response to this unfortunate turn of events, two dedicated local committees, Save Sammezzano and FPXA, have tirelessly championed the cause of the Castle. They strive to sustain public awareness and support for its preservation. Their efforts gained notable recognition in December 2019 when Sammezzano Castle secured a spot among the finalists in the “7 Most Endangered” program, focusing on endangered European heritage.
Unreachable Splendor
Currently, touring Sammezzano Castle remains unfeasible, while Sammezzano Park remains freely accessible. Unfortunately, visiting the Castle is hindered by the absence of necessary legal and safety prerequisites for any regulated activities within its premises. Compounding the issue are the deficiencies in fundamental amenities, including running water, heating, functional sanitary facilities, security doors, and other essential services mandated for museum-grade structures.
Those fortunate enough to have visited the Castle on special occasions in recent years only experienced a fraction of its total expanse – just over 35%. Regrettably, what they encountered lacked the original conception’s grandeur, with many windows either walled up or the colored glass shattered. This not only diminished its aesthetic impact but also erased much of the Marquis’s ingenious play of light. The absence of oriental furnishings further adds to the void, leaving visitors to imagine the missing embellishments such as internal fountains, ancient wrought iron chandeliers, and other ornaments that once adorned the Castle.
In essence, a visit to the Castle today is akin to not visiting it at all. A more impactful approach is to personally engage in supporting its recovery and enhancement. Let us collectively contribute to revitalizing and celebrating the cultural legacy encapsulated within Sammezzano Castle!
