Italy, with its commitment to excellence, consistently manages to captivate, even in realms one might not immediately associate with the Bel Paese – like chocolate. Surprisingly, in Italy, specifically in Sicily, one can discover a truly distinctive and refined treat: Modica chocolate.
This particular variety of chocolate sets itself apart through its unique flavor profile, the exceptional quality of its ingredients, and the meticulousness of its manufacturing process. It stands as a testament to the rich culture and history of its city. Notably, in 2018, Modica chocolate garnered the prestigious recognition of Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) from the European Union – a distinctive honor that sets it apart as the first and only European chocolate to receive such recognition.
Now, you might be curious: what makes Modica chocolate so noteworthy? Its value doesn’t solely stem from its place of production – interestingly, neither Sicily nor Italy cultivates cocoa. Instead, the distinction lies in two pivotal elements: the quality of ingredients and the intricacies of the manufacturing process. Before delving into these aspects, however, let’s explore a bit of its intriguing history.
The Arrival of Chocolate in Modica
According to some historical accounts, during the Spanish domination of Sicily in the 16th century, the art of chocolate processing was introduced by the Spanish to the County of Modica, at that time the paramount feudal state in southern Italy. The Spanish likely acquired the technique of cocoa bean processing from the Aztecs. However, surviving sources indicate that the Aztecs did not incorporate sugar into their cocoa consumption, preferring it in a liquid form.
Therefore, it is evident that Modica chocolate, presented in a solid ingot form and including sugar, does not trace its roots to an Aztec recipe. The Spaniards are believed to be the pioneers who introduced sugar, thus creating the initial primitive version of chocolate, and disseminating it across their territories, including the County of Modica, where Modica chocolate originated in the 18th century.
Historically, Modica chocolate was a cherished dessert within noble families, crafted at home during festive occasions and significant events. Numerous documents, such as the archived records of the noble Grimaldi family who settled in Modica in the 16th century, attest to a thriving production activity. These documents chronicle the delicate processing of aromatic cooked cocoa by “cicolateri”, who were already active in 1746.
In the 19th century, the monasteries and religious institutes in the region significantly contributed to enhancing the fame, processing, and dissemination of Modica chocolate. The product wasn’t merely consumed but frequently underwent further refinement within these establishments. The late 19th to early 20th centuries marked a pivotal stage as cafes in Modica evolved into veritable chocolate production laboratories, playing a crucial role in catapulting its renown to new heights.
Ingredients of Modica Chocolate
The crafting of Modica chocolate adheres to a meticulously defined recipe that relies on a select few ingredients. At its core is the cocoa mass, derived from the processing of meticulously toasted cocoa beans. The cocoa percentage employed serves as a defining factor for the chocolate: ranging from 50% to 75%, it earns the classification of dark Modica chocolate; between 75% and 85%, it is designated as extra dark Modica chocolate; boasting a cocoa content between 85% and 95%, it emerges as extra bitter Modica chocolate; finally, pure Modica chocolate reigns supreme, with a cocoa percentage surpassing 95%.
Post determination of the cocoa percentage, the remaining portion is allocated to sugars. The option of using either white or brown sugar exists, with the latter being particularly favored by connoisseurs for its distinctive flavor and the preservation of crystal size, which remains nearly intact throughout the processing stages.
Hence, cocoa and sugar stand as the fundamental constituents of Modica chocolate, though various delightful variations abound. Noteworthy versions include those infused with spices like chili pepper and cinnamon, or adorned with fruit such as lemon or orange, extending to the inclusion of indigenous dried fruits like Bronte pistachios and almonds.
What remains unequivocal is the commitment to employing top-tier ingredients, devoid of additives, artificial flavors, or colorings. Another pivotal characteristic of Modica chocolate lies in its deliberate exclusion of added cocoa butter. Unlike other chocolate varieties, Modica chocolate incorporates cocoa butter only in the natural quantity inherent in the cocoa beans, contributing to its distinct identity.
Production Process of Modica Chocolate
Now, let’s delve into another key characteristic that sets this product apart: the unique processing technique that omits the “conching” phase. This phase involves the prolonged mixing and heating of cocoa mass at high temperatures, rendering the mixture fluid and imperceptible to the tongue. The absence of this step, coupled with precise control over the processing temperature (which must not exceed 35-40 degrees), prevents the dissolution of sugar crystals. This distinctive approach imparts Modica chocolate with a characteristic grainy consistency discernible on the palate, allowing the distinct flavors of cocoa and sugar to unfold as they melt in your mouth.
Concerning the processing technique, some Modica chocolatiers opt for crafting handmade Modica chocolate using a stone pastry board. While this artisanal method is lengthier and more intricate, it ensures that the ingredients are blended without altering their inherent properties. Modern processing methods, while adhering to tradition, provide better control over all phases and yield a more stable product through the use of machinery.
Modica PGI chocolate, free from preservatives, qualifies as a perishable delight meant to be savored within a few weeks. Nevertheless, certain measures in the production process can extend its shelf life up to 18 months, all without resorting to preservatives or additives. An example is tempered Modica chocolate, crafted through a meticulously controlled low-temperature process that stabilizes the cocoa, granting consumers an extended shelf life without compromising its distinct qualities.
Versatility of Modica Chocolate
To fully relish its virtues and discern every aromatic nuance, a delicacy of such excellence and authenticity demands a leisurely savoring. Each morsel of chocolate gracefully dissolves in the mouth, leaving behind a “sandy” sensation attributed to the presence of whole sugar grains and the unrefined texture of the chocolate.
The distinctive qualities of Modica PGI chocolate harmonize with a myriad of recipes, spanning from traditional Sicilian cuisine to the inventive creations of esteemed chefs. Thanks to its balanced sweetness, Modica chocolate finds application in an array of recipes, extending beyond the realm of desserts.
In the Ragusa region, Modica chocolate ravioli stands out as a local specialty. Moreover, chocolate enhances savory meat dishes like lamb or rabbit, as well as the iconic Sicilian caponata. Among the renowned desserts, ‘mpanatigghi, the crescent-shaped biscuits synonymous with Modica, take center stage. Additionally, Modica chocolate shavings find their way into panettone and contribute to the filling of cannoli. However, the possibilities are limitless: it can be incorporated into the creation of cookies, muffins, cakes, ice cream, and beverages!
Consortium Protection and PGI Designation
Established in 2003, the Modica Chocolate Protection Consortium has a precise mission: to unite Modica chocolatiers and formulate production specifications that underscore the distinctive manufacturing processes and characteristics of chocolate. As a protective measure, packaging operations must be executed within a maximum of 12 hours post-cooling within the production facility. This stringent timeline mitigates potential bacterial contamination, safeguarding the organoleptic profile of the product. Additionally, it ensures that the chocolate remains impervious to humidity from the external environment, mitigating the risk of mold formation during storage and preserving the characteristic brown color of the product’s exterior.
In 2018, the European Union bestowed the PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) mark upon Modica chocolate, marking it as the first chocolate to receive such recognition. Consequently, encountering the designation “Cioccolato di Modica IGP” indicates a chocolate adhering to precise manufacturing standards. Identifying a genuine PGI product is straightforward. The logo visually represents the “valata ra ciucculata” and the “pistuni”, symbolizing the crescent-shaped pastry board and the cylindrical stone rolling pin traditionally employed in the manual processing of cocoa mass.
In instances where the PGI mark is absent, what is the course of action? It’s important to note that not all Modica chocolate producers belong to the consortium or have pursued the PGI mark. However, this absence does not diminish the quality or adherence to traditional artisanal processing for their chocolate. On the market, alternatives such as “Antico Cioccolato di Sicilia” or simply “Cioccolato Modicano” may be encountered.
The Black Gold of a Community
The production of Modica chocolate has consistently stood as a vital source of employment for the local population, evolving into a significant economic activity that remains one of the principal sources of employment in the Sicilian municipality. Often referred to as the “black gold of Modica”, it continues to play a crucial role in the community.
In the last three decades, the emergence of several small enterprises has given rise to a genuine “Modica Chocolate District”. This district is characterized by the vibrant efforts of operators, some of whom have initiated substantial export activities for the product. This distinctive feature of the production system has fostered the development and preservation of knowledge and skills handed down through generations, setting it apart from other regions.
The cultural connection between the product and the local territory is underscored by the traditional inclusion of Modica chocolate among the typical sweets of the winter season, especially during the Christmas holidays. Over time, its consumption has extended to other months of the year. To reinforce this bond, the annual “Chocomodica” event is held in Modica, contributing to the enduring reputation of the product.
Additionally, the local specialist lexicon retains slang terms dating back to ancient production traditions. Expressions like “priparari ‘na cotta ri ciucculatti” signify the preparation of a specific quantity of chocolate, while “a pasta travagghiata, passata, stricata” indicates the processed, blended, and refined bitter cocoa paste. Phrases such as “‘nto quartiere ma matri era a ciucculattara e io u figghiu ro ciucculattaru” vividly describe the transfer of skills from one generation to the next. Even terms like “puttari ‘a pasta amara a timipiratura” highlight the traditional chocolate melting technique, involving the gentle heating of the bitter cocoa paste at low temperatures.
Feeling hungry? Delve into the recipe of ‘mpanatigghi.
