One of the must-visit spots when exploring Trentino is Lake Tovel, nestled in the heart of the Adamello-Brenta Natural Park, shielded by the majestic Dolomites and not too distant from Trento. Sitting at 1,178 meters above sea level, it holds the title of the largest lake in Trentino, spanning 360,000 square meters with a maximum depth of 39 meters, all wrapped up in a vast pine forest.
Lake Tovel is known affectionately as “bear lake” due to the presence of brown bears in the valley, and “red lake” for its water turning red each summer, a phenomenon that hasn’t repeated since 1964 anyway. But most captivating of all, Lake Tovel boasts waters of striking emerald hue, earning it the nickname “Caribbean of Trentino”.
For this reason, Lake Tovel stands out as a prominent destination in Val di Non, offering an opportunity to connect with nature amidst its clear waters and the vibrant colors of autumn foliage. Arriving at this serene spot, gazing upon the Dolomites mirrored in the crystalline waters, promises a truly singular experience.
If you’re seeking practical information, below, we’ll outline the experiences to indulge in during a visit to Lake Tovel. But first, let’s delve into the captivating legend of this place and the mystery behind its once-red transformation every summer.
The Legend of Princess Tresenga
Once no one knew why the lake turned red, but the elderly people of Val di Non know a story from many centuries ago, when in Trentino there were kings, brave knights, and warrior princesses. In those times, nestled in Val Rendena stood the small kingdom of Ragoli, under the wise rule of a king blessed with a daughter named Tresenga. When the king passed away, leaving the kingdom to his daughter, suitors from far and wide sought her hand in marriage, yet none could capture Tresenga’s heart.
Among these suitors was Lavinto, the king of Tuenno, known for his pride and arrogance. Despite numerous rejections, Lavinto persisted in his pursuit of Tresenga. However, neither the queen nor the people of Ragoli favored this union. Frustrated by yet another refusal, Lavinto’s patience wore thin, and he marched upon Ragoli with his army.
The people of Ragoli, fiercely loyal to their queen, rose to defend their land. Tresenga herself took up arms and led her troops into battle against the invaders. The confrontation unfolded along the shores of Lake Tovel, a fierce clash between two determined forces. Despite their valor, the soldiers of Lavinto, battle-hardened and ruthless, overwhelmed the queen’s army. Tresenga herself fell in the heat of the conflict, her life sacrificed for her kingdom.
Since that fateful day, once a year, the waters of Lake Tovel turn red, a solemn reminder of the brave queen’s sacrifice. Some say that the spirit of Tresenga still lingers by the lake’s shores, especially on moonlit nights, mourning the tragic fate of her people.
Why did Lake Tovel turn red? The scientific explanation
Putting aside the legend, modern science sheds light on the phenomenon. Not long ago, it was believed that the reddish tint of Lake Tovel’s waters stemmed from an algae called Glenodinium sanguineum. This algae, rich in oily substances tinted by carotenoid pigments, was thought to turn the lake red during summer when it surfaced. The last significant reddening occurred in 1964, with occasional hints of color persisting until the 1980s, likely due to reduced cows’ presence in the area, as their excrement provided nutrients to the algae.
However, recent findings from the Agricultural Institute of S. Michele all’Adige reveal that the reddening of Lake Tovel cannot be solely attributed to Glenodinium. Instead, three other algae species play a role: Tovellia sanguinea (a “red” species, currently in minimal quantities), Baldinia anauniensis (a “green” species, abundant and responsible for the lake’s typical color today), and a third alga whose exact identity is still… under investigation.
What to do at Lake Tovel
Now that you’re familiar with both the legend and the scientific insights surrounding Lake Tovel, let’s delve into the top activities to enjoy during your visit to the lake. It’s essential to note that the road leading to the lake typically closes from November to March, making the best time to visit from April to October.
- Lake Tovel Circuit. This classic walk around the lake offers stunning views and takes about an hour to complete. The route is mostly flat and straightforward, with just a short section featuring rock steps and a metal rope for assistance. On hot summer days, you can even take a refreshing dip in the lake’s clear waters.
- Red Lake House Visit. Situated on the lake’s shore amidst a fir forest, the “House of the Red Lake” serves as a visitor center dedicated to the lake and its unique reddening phenomenon. Explore exhibition spaces and areas devoted to education and scientific research.
- Glare Trail. Offering a touch of American allure, this trail provides a downhill journey from Lake Tovel to Capriolo. Beginning amidst a fir and pine forest, the path emerges onto the Glare stony ground, formed by a significant landslide, before winding alongside a stream descending into the valley. While reminiscent of American canyon landscapes, the colors here exude a distinctly lunar ambiance.
- Trek from Lake Tovel to Malga Flavona. A highly rewarding excursion perfect for a leisurely day trip, even with children. This itinerary showcases some of the most breathtaking spots in the Brenta Dolomites, including Lake Tovel and the stunning Val Flavona with its mountain hut. The route predominantly follows a forest road along the Tresenica torrent valley. As you ascend from Malga Pozzol, the terrain becomes steeper, leading you through magnificent larch forests and expansive meadows en route to Malga Flavona.
- The Adamello-Brenta Natural Park. This park epitomizes the typical environment of the central-southern alpine region, characterized by dense forests of needle-shaped trees covering mountain slopes up to 1,800 meters in altitude. As you ascend beyond this elevation, the forests transition into alpine meadows and rocky terrain extending beyond 2,500 meters. Pastures, streams, peatlands, and imposing cliffs are found at all levels, while higher elevations boast spectacular and unique landscapes shaped by the geological and geomorphological diversity of the Brenta Dolomites and the Adamello-Presanella Group. Recognized as a “Geopark” due to its 61 sites of geological significance, the park offers a treasure trove of natural wonders to explore.
- The Lez of San Romadio. Carved into the rock, this path stands out as the most renowned and refined trail in Val di Non. Beginning in the town of Sanzeno, it leads to the famed Sanctuary of San Romadio in under an hour. What makes this walk distinctive is its route along an ancient irrigation channel, providing a unique perspective on the landscape and history of the region.
- Kayak Adventure on Rio Novella. Embark on an exciting kayak journey down the Rio Novella, starting with easy-to-follow instructions from experienced instructors. After a brief lesson on paddle techniques, you’ll set off into the primitive canyon formed by Rio Novella as it flows towards Lake Santa Giustina. This round-trip excursion covers approximately 10 kilometers and lasts around two and a half hours. The entire trip takes place on the lake’s waters, offering plenty of opportunities to pause for breathtaking photos and even a daring dive for the adventurous souls. Suitable for beginners, the trip includes guidance from kayak instructors and masters. Children as young as five can join in the fun, comfortably seated in specially designed kayaks with two, three, or four seats.
- Exploring Castel Valer. Step into a perfectly preserved piece of history with a guided tour of Castel Valer, situated in a splendid panoramic location. Despite its nine centuries of existence, the castle retains its historical and artistic legacy. Inhabited by a single family since 1368, its rooms are adorned with original furnishings, artworks, weaponry, documents, rugs, and tapestries, offering a glimpse into the life of the Spaur counts. The castle’s surroundings are adorned with apple trees, and its towering 40-meter-high tower adds to its majestic allure.
