In Italy there are approximately 2,500 distinct varieties of cheese. Yes, you read that correctly: 2,500. In this article, we want to take you on a journey to discover a very tasty and unique type of pecorino cheese: Canestrato di Moliterno. It stands as one of the oldest cheeses within Italy’s rich dairy heritage dating back to the 4th century BC, crafted in Moliterno, Basilicata, whose name likely stems from the Latin term “mulctrum” (container for milking). Its production area spans 60 municipalities within the provinces of Potenza and Matera, yet its aging process is exclusively confined to the territory of Moliterno.
This pecorino cheese boasts the Protected Geographical Indication and is crafted predominantly from sheep’s milk (70-90%), complemented by a smaller portion from goat’s milk (10-30%). Since the 1700s, when historical records first began, the residents of Moliterno have elevated the care and craftsmanship of this pecorino cheese to a primary occupation. The distinguished reputation of Canestrato di Moliterno is evident in numerous writings, and historically, it enjoyed considerable acclaim abroad, particularly in America, where it was widely exported.
Production According to Tradition
The distinctiveness of Canestrato di Moliterno cheese lies in its aging process, which must occur solely within the municipality of Moliterno in the unique cellars known as “fondaci”. Even today, producers rely on these exceptional spaces, which impart a singular character to the cheese.
These fondaci are cool, well-ventilated environments with a constant temperature of around 14 degrees Celsius and are devoid of moisture. Situated at an altitude exceeding 700 meters above sea level, they feature walls at least 40 cm thick, with at least two sides underground and two openings for air circulation.
After an initial aging period of approximately 15 days, the cheese wheels are smoothed with pumice stone. Following this, aging continues for a variable period ranging from 2 to 12 months, during which the wheels are periodically turned and brushed with oil and vinegar. Depending on the duration of aging, Canestrato di Moliterno is classified as “Primitivo” (aged up to six months), “Stagionato” (up to one year), or “Extra” (over one year).
The result is a cheese cylindrical in shape, with a diameter of approximately 20 cm and a height of 10-15 cm, weighing between 2 to 5.5 kg. Its rind exhibits varying hues, from more or less intense in the “Primitivo” type to brown in the “Stagionato”. The cheese displays a compact texture, and when sliced, presents a color spectrum ranging from white or lightly straw-colored for the “Primitivo” type, to more pronounced straw tones for the “Stagionato” and “Extra” varieties. Flavor-wise, it tends toward sweetness and delicacy in younger cheeses, evolving into a more robust, spicy profile as it matures.
Gastronomy
Like many pecorino cheeses, Canestrato cheese pairs delightfully with fresh vegetables and pears, and when aged, it’s perfect grated over pasta dishes with meat sauce or soups. For optimal storage, Canestrato di Moliterno is best kept in a cool, dry place. If portioned, it’s advisable to keep it in the refrigerator and consume it promptly.
The “Primitivo” type shines as a delectable cheese to enjoy on its own but also adds depth to simple, modern dishes, such as a salad featuring Alta Val d’Agri apples. On the other hand, the “Stagionato” variety elevates traditional Lucanian recipes like “cavuzuni” or “maccaruni o’ firricieddu” with its robust flavor. Lastly, Canestrato di Moliterno Extra truly comes into its own when paired with honey or enjoyed alongside a fine glass of red wine, such as Aglianico del Vulture DOP.
“Gentile di Lucania”
Another important factor that contributes to the excellent quality of this cheese is the sheep’s breed. Canestrato di Moliterno cheese is crafted using milk sourced from sheep belonging to breeds such as Gentile di Puglia, Gentile di Lucania, Leccese, Sarda, Comisana, and their crosses, while the goats hail from breeds like Garganica, Maltese, Jonica, Camosciata, and their crosses. The most prevalent ovine breed in the region is the Gentile di Lucania, a result of crossbreeding initiated in the 15th century between local sheep and Spanish Merino rams.
This particular crossbreeding was born out of the necessity to marry robust wool production with the inherent meat-producing abilities of Lucanian ovine populations. The outcome was a dual-purpose breed. Although characterized by modest milk yields, this breed boasts exceptional quality seldom found in other breeds.
