Maybe you don’t like them and truly believe there’s a dish capable of chasing cats away. Well, let’s be clear right away: you’re likely to be disappointed. However, this Italian food has a name that – in its original form – really means “chase cats away”.
The calzagatti represents a humble dish from Modena, in Emilia Romagna, consisting simply of cubes of polenta and beans, typically fried but not exclusively so. You might be curious about its pronunciation: calzagatti is pronounced as “kahl-tzah-gah-tee”, and translates directly to “stocking” (calza) “cats” (gatti). Perhaps now you’re wondering: what the hell of a name is that? Let’s delve into its intriguing history.
The History of Calzagatti
Legend has it that the origins of calzagatti trace back to a typical tale of times long past. Picture this: there was a “rezdora” – the holder of ancient culinary wisdom passed down through the cultural artistry of cooking. This Rezdora was preparing polenta in one pot and simultaneously cooking beans on a wood stove in another. While bringing the beans to the table, the Rezdora accidentally stumbled upon her cat, causing the beans to spill into the pot of polenta. To salvage the family dinner, the Rezdora served this mixture of beans and polenta, christening it “chelzagàt”, meaning “chase cats away” – the cat, startled by the commotion, promptly fled. Hence emerged the name of the calzagatti recipe, a dish that purportedly chases cats away.
Whether due to its eccentric name – it doesn’t work to chase cats away! – or because during this period of economic crisis Italians tend to gravitate towards cheap but nutritious recipes, calzagatti seems to be making a comeback. Once a dish on the brink of extinction, it is now finding its place on menus at village festivals, restaurants, and food blogs.
A Simple and Tasty Snack
This dish, symbolizing popular culture, unites two fundamental ingredients of simple cuisine – beans and polenta – which complement each other beautifully. Optionally, a final frying turns this dish into a truly delightful snack. While many versions of calzagatti include the use of bacon or lard in sautéing the beans and lard for frying, homemade variations can be equally delicious in a vegan rendition, eschewing meat and using vegetable oil.
Known by various names across different areas of the Modenese province – such as cazzagai, ciribusla, paparuccia, or bagia – calzagatti also boasts numerous variations, as is typical in Italian culinary traditions. Some versions incorporate a touch of cream and Parmesan into the polenta, while others substitute corn flour for chestnut flour. These bite-sized delights are enjoyed sans cutlery, as a perfect appetizer, or paired with a soft cheese like ricotta. The versatility of this dish allows for a sweet rendition by combining it with plum jam or sugar, presenting a unique gastronomic experience.
