Spaghetti are undoubtedly the most iconic and beloved type of Italian pasta around the globe, but there exists a variety that might just surpass traditional spaghetti, despite being virtually unknown outside of Italy. Meet bigoli, a robust, long pasta reminiscent of thick spaghetti, hailing from the Veneto region and very popular in neighboring Trentino and the eastern part of Lombardy.
The term bigolo literally translates to “little worm”, but in Veneto, it carries a cheeky double meaning, rather explicitly referring to the male sexual organ and is also used colloquially to describe a foolish person.
What truly sets this pasta apart is its rough texture, which grips sauces and condiments more effectively than spaghetti, a quality attributed to its unique method of preparation. The pasta is typically 2.5 mm in diameter and stretches to a length of 25-30 cm. Traditionally, bigoli are crafted from soft wheat flour, water, and salt, but today, variations that include eggs (either chicken or duck) and butter have become popular. Additionally, there are varieties such as “dark bigoli”, made with buckwheat flour and typical of Bassano del Grappa and its surrounding areas.
A Pasta Born in 1300
The origins of bigoli can be traced back as far as the 1300s. During the fierce conflict between the Most Serene Republic of Venice and the Turks – who were notorious for sinking ships laden with precious durum wheat – a resourceful pasta maker had a brilliant idea. Faced with a dwindling supply of durum wheat flour, he decided to mix it with soft wheat flour, creating a robust, thick pasta reminiscent of oversized spaghetti. His invention was met with such acclaim that the name “bigolo” found its way into the popular ballads and nursery rhymes of the era.
It wasn’t until the 1600s, however, that bigoli truly entered widespread production. In 1604, a Padua-based pasta maker named Bartolomio Veronese, also known as Abbondanza (meaning abundance), patented a machine of his own design. This unique wooden device, cylindrical in shape, allowed dough to be compressed using a lever or, at times, a handlebar, forcing it through a die with holes measuring between 2 and 2.5 mm. This process produced bigoli and other types of pasta, but customers quickly developed a strong preference for bigoli, a name likely derived from the local dialect word “bigàt” (worm) or the Latin “bombyx” (silkworm).
Today, bigoli are beloved throughout Veneto, readily available in most grocery stores and frequently featured on the menus of restaurants and agriturismi (farm stays). The primary production regions include the provinces of Padua, Treviso, and Vicenza.
Traditional Recipes
The quintessential pairing for bigoli is a rich duck ragù or a classic meat ragù, with or without tomato sauce. Another celebrated dish is “bigoli in salsa”, where the pasta is dressed in a savory sauce made from sautéed onions, olive oil, and anchovies. Unlike other seafood, anchovies harmonize surprisingly well with cheeses like Grana Padano, Parmigiano Reggiano, or aged Asiago. For an even more refined touch, consider using butter-toasted breadcrumbs, delicately infused with bay leaf, rosemary, thyme, and a pinch of salt. This combination elevates the dish to a whole new level of flavor.
Festivals Dedicated to Bigoli
Bigoli hold such a special place in Italian cuisine that they are celebrated with numerous local festivals each year. In the last week of April, Limena, in the province of Padua, comes alive with the “Festa dei Bigoli al Torcio”. Every Saturday and Sunday throughout May, Rovolon (Padua) hosts its own Feast of Bigoli drawing pasta enthusiasts from near and far. The third weekend of May and again in August, during the festivities for San Bartolomeo, Abano Terme (Padua) joins in the celebration with its own bigoli festival.
In Ceneselli (Rovigo), another festival, affectionately known in the local dialect as the “Festa dal Bigul al Torc”, takes place between the second-to-last and the last week of August. Meanwhile, in Costacciaro (Perugia), a bigoli festival is held annually on August 17th and 18th. The “Bigoi de Bassan” festival in Bassano del Grappa (Vicenza) follows closely, lighting up the first weekend of September.
Even in Lazio, bigoli are honored with a festival in Borgo Vodice (Latina) on the last Sunday of June. One of the most storied events is the “Bigolada” in Castel d’Ario (Mantua), a tradition dating back to 1848, held every year on Ash Wednesday. Finally, October brings the “Bigolata” in Reggiolo (Reggio Emilia), a three-day feast showcasing the finest traditional cuisine and various styles of bigoli.
Now that you know just how cherished bigoli are, if you’ve never had the pleasure of tasting them and find yourself on vacation in Italy, I highly recommend giving them a try! You’ll soon discover that while spaghetti may be the mainstream choice, bigoli are for true pasta lovers.
