If you happen to find yourself in Livorno, there’s one thing you absolutely must do: sample the renowned 5 and 5 sandwich, a true emblem of this Tuscan city. The 5 and 5 boasts a fascinating history, yet its recipe remains delightfully simple. It starts with a bread known as “francesino” (literally, little French), free from milk or lard. This bread serves as the vessel for a filling made of chickpea cake, a kind of pancake crafted from chickpea flour, water, extra virgin olive oil, and salt. Ideally, these pancakes are cooked in wood-fired ovens on special round trays made of tinned copper. Sliced chickpea cake, generously dusted with pepper, is then nestled between the francesino slices, best enjoyed piping hot.
Traditionally, the 5 and 5 sandwich pairs harmoniously with a classic non-alcoholic sparkling beverage still beloved in Livorno: “spuma bionda”, which translates to “blonde foam”. This caramel-colored drink is made with water, sugar, and a blend of various flavorings, its recipe shrouded in as much mystery as that of Coca-Cola!
While the francesino bread (more akin to ciabatta than a baguette) is typically used for the 5 and 5, focaccia, known as “schiaccia” in Livorno, also makes an appearance. Over the past two decades, a delectable addition to the chickpea cake has emerged: “under pesto” eggplants. A word of caution: this isn’t your typical Genoese pesto. In Livorno, “under pesto” means garlic, chili pepper, and vinegar. Good to know, isn’t it?
Born in 1284
The 5 and 5 sandwich has woven itself into the fabric of daily life in Livorno since the 1930s. Its name derives from the cost of its two key ingredients: bread and chickpea cake, priced at 5 cents each (five lire). This monetary arrangement led to a common customer request: “5 for cake and 5 for bread”. Thus, the chickpea cake was simply referred to as cake, and the sandwich became known as the 5 and 5 (cinque e cinque in Italian).
However, the roots of this beloved Livorno street food stretch back well before 1900, tracing its origins to the sea, particularly the Genoese ships. This is the legend. Following their victory over Pisa in the historic naval battle of Meloria in 1284, these ships encountered a storm that caused barrels of oil and chickpeas in the hold to spill and mix with seawater. Despite its unappealing appearance, this mixture dried in the sun, transforming into a crunchy and flavorful treat, adept at staving off hunger among the sailors.
Upon returning to land, sailors continued to prepare this nourishing food, baking it in ovens. Originally known as the “gold of Pisa” in Genoa, it eventually became known as “farinata”. Its preparation spread throughout the Mediterranean, with each region adding its own twist (as seen in Sicilian panelle). By the early twentieth century, Livorno began sandwiching its “cake”, birthing one of the city’s signature culinary delights.
Today, these panini are sold by specialized artisans known as “tortai” (literally, cake makers), as well as in pizzerias and street food stalls – a tradition that fills the hearts of Livorno locals with pride. In fact, the Tortai Livornesi Association was established to safeguard the 5 and 5, commemorating its significance with an annual “5 and 5 Day” celebration held every May 5th.
The Best Places to Eat 5 and 5 in Livorno
In Livorno, cake makers abound, offering an array of options to savor an authentic 5 and 5 experience. Here, we’ve handpicked five of the most renowned establishments.
- Da Gagarin: Situated across from the Central Market, this spot draws crowds during lunchtime, easily identifiable by the line of eager patrons. What sets it apart is its singular focus on crafting chickpea cake exclusively! You’ll find it in via del Cardinale 24.
- Da Cecco: Competing with Gagarin for the city’s top spot, Da Cecco is located a stone’s throw from the port and opens its doors only in the evening. With its intimate setting exuding a nostalgic charm, this gem offers a handful of tables and warm, genuine service. Find it at via Cavalletti 2.
- Galassi Torta & Pizza: Just a hop away from the train station, this cozy joint is renowned for its takeaway pizza and cake. While seating is limited, it’s worth stopping by for their unforgettable chestnut cake. You’ll find it in via Carducci 249.
- Seghieri Pizzeria e Torta: Nestled in the heart of the city center, this quaint establishment is often bustling with patrons. With roots tracing back to 1912, it’s one of Livorno’s historic locales. Find it via Ernesto Rossi 19.
- Da David: Despite its modest size, this establishment garners such popularity that reservations, even for takeaway, are recommended. Alongside the classic chickpea cake and 5 and 5, they boast a diverse selection of stuffed focaccias and pizzas with unique flavors. Discover it at via Calzabigi 10.
5 and 5 Chickpea Cake Sandwich Recipe
Would you like to try your hand at crafting the famed 5 and 5 sandwich right in your own kitchen? While the absence of a wood oven and copper pan may alter the outcome slightly, rest assured, the results will still tantalize your taste buds.
Ingredients
- 300 g of chickpea flour
- 800 g of water
- 1 teaspoon of salt
- Generous amount of extra virgin olive oil
- Pepper to taste
Cooking Instructions
- Begin by placing the chickpea flour in a bowl and adding salt to it. Gradually pour in the water while continuously stirring to prevent the formation of lumps. Cover the mixture with a cloth and let it rest for about 5 hours, stirring occasionally and skimming off any foam that accumulates.
- Preheat your oven to 200 degrees Celsius in fan mode.
- Thoroughly oil a shallow pan.
- Pour the rested mixture into the oiled pan, ensuring an even distribution of oil throughout.
- Bake for approximately 30 minutes or until the surface develops a golden hue.
- Once baked, sprinkle the chickpea cake generously with pepper.
- Serve the chickpea cake sliced and nestled within your favorite bread to recreate the authentic 5 and 5 sandwich experience. Buon appetito!
